Underfloor heating is often left on for long periods to provide background heat, you can choose a temperature setting of 16 to 27 degrees Celsius (60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit) for home heating, depending on the room. This could be raised to a maximum of 32 degrees Celsius (90 degrees Fahrenheit) for fast heating. The ideal temperature for underfloor heating is 75°F (24°C). For a small range, anywhere between 74°F and 77°F is at the optimum temperature point for underfloor heating.
Dense and solid materials, such as tile and stone, have good thermal conductivity, which means that heat can be better transmitted from the heating element to the floor surface. Tiles and stone can also be heated to +29°C to provide higher production. Soft floor materials such as wood, laminate and linoleum have comparatively poor conductivity and can also only be heated to 27° C, which means a certain maximum heat output, depending on the size of the heated area. Again, if your chosen floor finish only allows for a temperature of 27°C and the heat output requirement is higher than what can be achieved with a 27°C floor, you might consider changing the floor material so that a floor heating system functions as the sole source of heat.
This varies from person to person, but generally 21°C is the ideal temperature for living areas. Rooms tend to be a little colder at 18°C. You can adjust it with the control panel of the underfloor heating. The temperature of the water flow will vary between 35 and 60 °C, depending on the heat losses of the building.
If the system works with thermostatic mixing valves, use a temperature of 45°C for level floors and a temperature of 55°C for suspended and floating wooden floors. Unlike radiators that heat a relatively small and concentrated area, a floor heating system uses the entire floor area of each room to emit heat, so it does not need to operate at high temperatures. Usually, the water temperature in a floor heating system is between 35 and 55 degrees Celsius, depending on the construction of the floor. Adding additional insulation in the cavity wall, ceiling and floor are good ways to keep warm and will reduce the heat output requirements of any heating system.
Read on for expert advice on heat production and factors affecting the heat output of a floor heating system. In general, the flow rates of underfloor heating are much lower than those used in other hydronic heating systems that use baseboards or radiators. Obviously, if you installed underfloor heating for a smaller room, such as a bathroom, it will not take as long as in a decent-sized living room. Again, you lose heat as it rises, and it will never be as hot as on the floor with underfloor heating.
Unless you have a black crayon and an infrared thermometer, it may be a little more difficult to measure the surface temperature of the finished floor (what your bare feet would feel when walking on the floor) than to look at a temperature gauge on the hot water heating pipes or in the heating boiler. but looking at the surface of the finished floor is an important temperature to consider. For example, heat will travel much faster through a dense structure, such as a tile, than through a more porous structure, such as wood. Because they are wireless, these underfloor heating controllers can be installed in an existing building without the need to connect the wiring to the walls, causing fewer interruptions.
Use the location of your phone to turn off the heating when you are a certain distance from home and turn it back on when you return. According to Energy Savings Trust, lowering thermostats in rooms with underfloor heating by just 1 degree could save around £80 and 330 kg of CO2 a year. The plumber suggested simply putting a timer on the water heater, and the electrician suggested a thermostat that measures the temperature of the floor. .
